Belle Isle
This is Danielle Harris, and I’m inviting everyone to DISCOVER DETROIT, our own internationally recognized rising icon. Pause to appreciate her fine history and vibrant multi-cultural heritage. Theater, music, and art; great sports and fine museums – we’re a major contributor to our country’s industry and at the same time can boast many of its finest skyscrapers. Our first DISCOVER DETROIT adventure focused on midtown, where the magnificent Detroit Public Library, Historical Museum, and DIA are neighbors at the intersection of Woodward and Kirby. Illustrating the breadth of our fair city’s assets, today we’ll visit the east side and one of Michigan’s best kept secrets – BELLE ISLE. You’re In for a surprising and variety filled afternoon.
First, as an enticement, a little island history. In traceable terms, it begins in the l8th century with the French colonists, who named it Hog Island, because they let their livestock roam free. During the Revolutionary War hundreds of American prisoners of war and their families were held there from 1780-1782. American General Alexander Macomb, Jr. briefly owned the entire island. It wasn’t until a July 4, l845 picnic that it was decided to name it BELLE ISLE (Beautiful Island) in honor of Isabelle Cass, daughter of Governor (General) Lewis Cass. In the l880s the city hired Frederick Lewis Olmstead (of New York’s Grand Central Park fame) to create a plan for turning the island into a park.
More recently, during World War II the United Sates military used it as a training ground and port, briefly and temporarily naming the bridge Bella Jima when they bloodlessly re-enacted our Navy and Marines’ victorious invasion of the Pacific Island Iwo Jima. In 1942, undoubtedly this well-deserved war enthusiasm prompted the bridge to be officially named The Douglas MacArthur Bridge, the General then being the Commander of the Southeast Theater.
Regardless, since 1845 is has always been commonly called the Belle Isle Bridge. Upon crossing each car must pay an entrance fee, which contributes to the island’s maintenance. At the gate this is $14-$21, depending on the vehicle, and entitles the car to enter all state parks free for a year ($14-$16 if you purchase a Park Recreation Passport when renewing your license plate). While the park is open every day from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m., a number of its attractions limit days to Wednesday or Thursday through Sunday 10-4 or 5, so reading this article might help you deter- mine which day you want to visit it.
At 982 acres BELLE ISLE is the largest city-owned park in the United States, as well as the second most visited island after Niagara Falls. She has been called “The City’s Island Jewel,” and deserves that accolade and more. There is an area of wetlands, a lovely nature trail, and a deep sandy beach with a fabulous view of Detroit. Generations have spent endless relaxed hours fishing her waters. The Giant Slide, open Memorial Day through Labor Day at $1 a ride, is a favorite with children and adults alike. During the mid 20th century 1000s of families and school classes enjoyed their autumn horse drawn hayrides. While the horses are no longer present, their semi-Tudor stables can still be viewed.
On your left shortly after entering the Park is the beautiful James Scott Memorial Fountain – often flower surrounded and with its stunning works in action, it has been a favorite photo spot since 1925. Unfortunately, during 2026 parts of the plaza are closed for restorative reconstruction.
THE CONSERVATORY AND GREENHOUSE
Finished in 1904, the Conservatory and Greenhouse are a must visit. Open Wed-Sun, it is one of the oldest conservatories in the country. Architect Cass Gilbert, who also designed the James Scott Fountain, the Detroit Public Library and the U.S. Supreme Court, partnered with genius Albert Kahn in its creation. Kahn deserves his own article for his contributions to Detroit landmarks from the sublime Fisher Building to Ford’s Rouge Plant. The original building had wood beams which were replaced by aluminum during 1952-54.
In 1953 it was named after Anna Scripps Whitcomb when she gave her 600 plant orchid collection to the Conservatory. This inspired a few lesser donations, so that at one point it was the largest municipally owned collection in the country. Sadly, before the State took out its 30-year lease and control of the Park, financial difficulties resulted in the demise of many of these plants.
The central dome is 85’ high and features a continuous display of seasonal plants against a backdrop that includes tall tropical species like banana trees and various palms, which many Michiganders will never have the opportunity to see in their natural habitat. The Greenhouse features everything from dessert cacti small and large, to succulents, and tropical crops like sugar cane.
Outside the Conservatory is surrounded by formal gardens, rose beds and even a koi (goldfish) lily pond. The grounds used to have a specific scent garden for the blind to enjoy, but there are still areas where fragrance is dominant.
THE AQUARIUM
Within footsteps of the Conservatory is the Aquarium, open Thurs – Sun 10-4. When opened on 8/18/1904 it was America’s oldest, and the world’s third oldest aquarium. During Prohibition its basement was a popular speakeasy, with Canada’s Hiram Walker, only ½-mile away, providing an endless clandestine supply of illegal whiskey. Due to insufficient funds, it increasingly deterior- ated until it was finally closed in the early 2000s. Restoration began and it re-opened 8/18/2012, 108 years to the day from its debut.
The 10,000 square-foot single gallery has a stunning arched back-lit green glass tile ceiling to invoke the feeling of being under water. Unlike today’s aquariums with their giant tanks that often provide at best distant visions of their inhabitants, Belle Isle’s Aquarium offers eye-level windows featuring up close a very few species only each.
DOSSIN GREAT LAKES MUSEUM
Last but by no means least, on the Canadian side is the Dossin Great Lakes Museum, cataloging Detroit’s 300-year role in our maritime history. Founded in 1949, the museum was first located in the Schooner J. T. Wing, the last commercial sailing ship on the Great Lakes. Due to the deteriorating condition of the ship it was closed in 1958. The current 16,000 square-foot museum and its grounds opened in 1961. The entry fee is $5, summer hours are Wed-Sat 10-5, Sun 1-5. As with all museums it has fascinating both temporary and permanent exhibits.
Favorites in the latter category include one of the largest collections of ship models in the world, transplanted portions from the Gothic Lounge in the Golden Age luxury steamer City of Detroit III, the massive bow anchor from the wreck of the legendary SS Edmund Fitzgerald, and the Miss Pepsi, one of the fastest hydroplanes of all times. In the l950s she was the first to qualify at over 100 MPH. To top it all off, there is the Pilot House of the S.S. William Clay Ford, where you can stand at the wheel and experience through a simulator what it’s like to steer a leviathan of the Great Lakes.
THE DETROIT BOAT CLUB
Entering and leaving BELLE ISLE you can’t help but notice the Detroit Boat Club. It was organized on paper in 1839 with the purpose of establishing rowing on the Detroit River, and is the 2nd oldest rowing club in the United States, 4th oldest in the world. In 1890 the Boat Club finally leased property on BELLE ISLE. The first two facilities burned down, and it wasn’t until 1902 that the Mediterranean style building opened. By 1920 private sailing craft far outnumbered rowing vessels, but the Detroit Boat Club Crew was so successful that in 1921 they formed the separate but affiliated Detroit Crew Club. By 1923 the Boat Club had enlarged to what you see today. In 1926 they opened the Olympic-sized swimming pool, and in 1928 hosted the U.S. Olympic Swim Team Finals. Winners included Johnny Weismuller, the original and still most famous Tarzan, and Buster Crabb, the original Flash Gordon.
During this period the Detroit Crew Club built their substantial shell house at water level on the bridge side of the main Clubhouse. It is the last surviving rowing shell house on the Detroit River, where once there were 70. By mid-century the Boat Club boasted well over 1,000 members, but had begun to have serious arguments with the City of Detroit on a number of issues. Gradually membership dropped to about 200. In 1972 they informed the rowers they no longer had funds to support them. After 121 years the partnership was dissolved, and the rowers reorganized under “Friends of Detroit Rowing.” The shell house was theirs as part of the separation agree- ment. The Boat Club itself declared bankruptcy in 1992, and its building was condemned in 2022.
And now to the Cinderella Story. The Friends of Detroit Rowing Club continued to thrive. It has produced more than 500 United States and Canadian National Champions, 19 Olympians, 35 Na- tional Team Members representing us in World Championships. In 2015 the comparatively tiny but still hugely successful Friends of Detroit Rowing Club took out a 30-year lease on the Boat Club building, thus forestalling its demolition. That lease has been superseded. On January 23, 2026, the Department of Natural Resources finalized a 50-year lease with the City and State on the Detroit Boat Club structures.
By the end of ’25 this once exquisite clubhouse, one of the oldest concrete buildings in the United States, was reduced to significantly deteriorated steel and concrete support, a partially caved-in roof, collapsed floors, and extensive peeling of its exterior stucco, just for starters. The $30-35 million restoration, led by Stuart Pitman, Inc., will feature restaurants, special event space (i.e. wedding receptions in the renovated ballroom), a public marina, expanded facilities for rowing (including a new shell house) and sailing, even a water taxi service. The goal is a summer 2027 opening.
Until next time this is Danielle Harris, thanking you for joining me, and hoping that over the months to come many of you will be increasingly inspired to DISCOVER DETROIT in person.
